San Francisco

Whenever a publication compiles a list of "the most livable cities in the world", a few names almost always crop up among the top ten. Off the top of my head, these are Auckland, Melbourne, a number of Scandinavian cities, and of course the ever-present Vancouver. A quick google search brought me to the Economist Intelligence Unit's 2011 list which suggests  not much has changed.

Ask anyone from Melbourne why their city is great, and you can play a game of bingo with the keywords: "cosmopolitan", "coffee culture", "multicultural", "fusion", "laid back", "lifestyle"' "good weather", "great wines". All the usual euphemisms for 'soulless'. Nice places to live, but a long way from Rome or any of the truly great cities. Auckland, Adelaide, Perth - genetically modified versions of the same thing.

Which brings me to San Francisco. Good food, hospitable climate, a famously liberal attitude, decent infrastructure and a long list of famous sights - the city has everything to compete with the 'livables'. So why isn't it on the list? Looking back now, as I crossed Bay Bridge and for 45 minutes made a concerted effort to avoid eye contact with the gangsta brothers on the next lane,  my guess is one factor could be the city's geographical proximity to Oakland.

Windows up. 'Best of the 90s' radio volume down.

I quickly learned that Oakland and San Francisco are in fact two different cities, and that the former is one you shouldn't even attempt to venture into alone. This piece of advice came from some friendly drunks in a dive bar who also pointed me to my hotel, the Nob Hill Motor Inn. Clean, no frills, free parking, good value for money, great name.

As Shannon was staying just a few blocks away, the location couldn't have been better. There was one day to kill before he returned to town so the next morning I crossed the Golden Gate and made my way to the wine country.

Golden Gate

Napa Valley

Napa was pleasant enough but so is a sunny day in Kew Gardens. Nothing here to persuade me to stay the night so I floored it back to the city, returning just in time for Shannon's leaving party. As it turns out, he has landed a new job in AKQA, one of the top ad agencies in LA, so I managed to catch him just in time.

Soon came a hangover of biblical proportions.

The next two days were spent ticking all the boxes on the San Francisco tourist map. Didn't make it to Alcatraz but I know all about it anyway.

Strong winds on Twin Peaks. Resounding proof that hair is real.

 Haight Street. Fried Sashimi's hangout in 'experimental' days.

Best pancakes in the world at Peter D's. Burritos and Tacos on Haight.

Pacific Heights

Bay Bridge by night.

Bay Bridge by night with ISO cranked up to 1600 and shuttered speed lowered to 1/4 second. Kleenex please.

It's difficult not to like San Francisco. For the few days that I spent here, I really felt as though I could live here. What is it that Melbourne, Adelaide and Vancouver have that this place doesn't? On my last, day the same few drunks from the dive bar who pointed me to Nob Hill now pointed me to places in America that I really must see. The following day, I returned the Jeep and re-rented a more fuel-efficient Toyota Corolla, in anticipation of a very long drive.